Standing at 4808 meters (15,780 feet) Mont Blanc is the highest mountain in the Western Alps. It was on Mont Blanc more than two centuries ago that Alpinism was founded when the mountain was first climbed by the scientist Horace Benedict de Saussure. The history, size, and beauty of Mont Blanc has established it as a classic must-do climb, at the top of many mountaineers tic lists.

Our Route

The Gouter route, which ascends the Northwest ridge is the most direct and moderate, and often our route of choice. Just because it’s the most climbed route, does not mean it should be taken lightly. Climbing the Gouter route is strenuous high altitude climbing that requires stamina, good acclimatization, and solid technique.

Mont Blanc can be climbed in two days. The first day is the approach; using a combination of trams, trains and a steep 2-hour hike, we will arrive at the Tete Rousse hut. The second day is a big one. We will make or summit bid and then descend back to the hut, to the train and all the way back to the Chamonix valley with a tram ride.

Roped up with crampons on, we leave the Tete Rousse hut around 2 am. After a short traverse, we climb steeply to the edge of the Grand Couloir. Crossing this couloir takes only a minute, but is potentially the most dangerous minute of our climb. Rockfall in this couloir is common and good judgment, speed and sure-footedness are required for a safe crossing. Once across the couloir, the fun begins, as we climb and scramble up the rocky Gouter ridge. You can expect to take around 2 hours to get from the Tete Rousse to the Gouter hut, which is where we transition to glacier travel mode.

Over the Dome du Gouter and past the Bivouac Vallot. The final push up the exposed Arete des Bosses ridge brings us to this spectacular summit. On a clear day, one can see the Matterhorn in Switzerland and Grand Paradiso in Italy, as well as the Chamonix valley down below. After a few photo’s we’ll retrace our steps back home.

Choose Your Program

Although the actual ascent of Mont Blanc only requires two days, most climbers are better served by adding in some training and acclimatization days. For this reason, we offer a couple of options. Please note that even the 4-day option feels aggressive for many people.

Day 1

We meet at 9 am for a gear check and to establish our plan for the next few days. From the town center, we will ride the Aiguille de Midi Tram to its top at 12,605’. Do a training and acclimatization hike across the Vallee Blanche and climb the Aiguille d’Entreves. We will spend the evening at the Torino hut, 11,075 feet.

Day 2

Ride the bubbles back across the Vallee Blanch and climb the Cosmiques ridge. The top of the Cosmiques Arete puts us on the Tram Deck.  We will spend the night in Chamonix

Day 3

Go to Tete Rouse hut.

Day 4

Summit and Descend to the Nid d’Aigle to catch the Mont Blanc Railway back to the Chamonix Valley.

Day 1

Meet at 9 am for gear check and establish a plan for the week. From Le Tour, we take the Charamillion-Balme ski lift to its top. From the top of the lift, we hike to the Albert Premier Hut, 8,864 feet.

Day 2

Early morning start to climb the Petit Fourche, followed by a glacier tour to the Trient hut, 10,400 feet.

Day 3

Climb the Aiguille du Tour and descend back to Chamonix, where will spend the night.

Day 4

Ascend via train and lift to Nid d’ Aigle followed by a hike on a trail to the Tete Rouse hut, 10,390.

Day 5

Summit day and return to the Tete Rouse hut.

Day 6

Descend to Nid d’Aigle, where we take a train and lifts back to Chamonix.

Dates*

July - August

*Custom dates available


Price: 4 Day*

$3800 (1 person)
$4600 (2 people)
$6600 (4 people)

Price: 6 Day*

$2200 (1 person)
$2600 (2 people)
$4800 (4 people)

*Includes professional certified guide, all guide expenses, and mountain transportation. Does not include meals, lodging, airfare, or transfers to/from Chamonix.

Adventure Guides - ITCOG Book Now Free Expedition Planner by ITCOG

"I recommend a family climb with Winslow and Todd Passey. Our family went up the Middle Teton with the two of them as guides. Todd sacrificed himself to the gods of hail the night before to check the route. The dawn broke clear, and we headed up the long gully to the crux pitch. One by one each of us linked the moves. A short time later we were looking down on all of Idaho and Wyoming. Climbing doesn't have to separate families. It can unite them."

- Stephen G.

Your Team

We specialize in designing custom and private trips, perfect for you or a group. Our team of highly experienced, certified, professional guides will teach you the skills, and lead you there and safely home.

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